Nungwi is traditionally the centre of Zanzibar's dhow-building industry,
and, over the last decade, the coastline here has rocketed in
popularity to become one of the island's busiest beach destinations. The
ramshackle fishing village has been sidelined by an ever-increasing
number of guesthouses, bars, shops, restaurants and bikini-clad
backpackers. Ageing hippies, cool dudes, gap-year students and bright
young things escaping European city jobs are all drawn to its white
sand, stage-set palm trees, turquoise sea and sparkling sunshine. The
setting is beautiful, but the number of people, constant noise and
seemingly uncontrolled development, albeit low level, take the edge off
its charm.
By day, the beach sees sunbathing tourists slumber,
swim and indulge in lemongrass massages, whilst wandering local guys
tout their 'tours' and sell a range of mediocre paintings, sunglasses
and replica football shirts; then, as the sun sets, the visitors arise
and the whole place buzzes with party spirit. Beach bonfires blaze,
cocktails flow and the music rocks till dawn. This is not a location for
those seeking peace and quiet.
Despite the influx of tourists,
Nungwi is a traditional, conservative place. It was one of the last
coastal settlements on Zanzibar to have a hotel, or any tourist
facilities. As recently as the mid-1990s, proposals for large
developments in the area were fiercely opposed by local people. Today,
the proudly independent villagers give the impression that tourists are
here on sufferance. However, they are not unfriendly and most visitors
find that a little bit of cultural respect, politeness and a few words
of Swahili go a long way.
Some visitors, particularly
backpackers, find themselves torn between either coming to Nungwi and
the north coast, or going to Paje, Bwejuu and Jambiani on the east
coast. For some thoughts on the differences between these two areas see.
Getting there and away
Nungwi
can be reached by bus, tourist minibus or hired vehicle. From Zanzibar
Town the main road to Nungwi goes via Mtoni (Mtonim 6º8.191's;
39º12.801'e), Mahonda (mahond 5º59.388's; 39º15.106'e), Kinyasini
(kinyas 5º58.088's; 39º18.5'e) and kivunge (Kivung 5º52.895's;
39º16.973'e). There is a more scenic road directly north of Mahonda to
Mkokotoni (mkok0t 5º52.517's; 39º15.308'e), but at the end of 2005 it
was in extremely poor condition and the preserve of 4x4s only.
As
you enter Nungwi, a conglomeration of signs advertising accommodation
and activities marks a fork in the road. Head right for Nungwi's east
coast hotels, or follow the road straight and then left around the
football pitch to reach the village, and the north, south and west
beaches.
If you arrive by dala-dala (number 16 from Stone
Town), the main stop is opposite the football pitch, mentioned above,
from where it's a 20-minute walk to the heart of the tourist throng. The
shared tourist minibuses, a more popular option, will stop in the
centre of the action beside Amaan Bungalows.
It has also been
known for travellers to pay local fishermen to take them by boat to
their next destination, even as far as Matemwe. Ask around to ensure
reliability and safety, make sure people know where you're going, and
check that there's a decent motor and safety equipment (like
lifejackets) for longer trips.
Getting around
Most
places in and around Nungwi are within walking distance, but if you're
staying on the more upmarket east side of the peninsula, and fancy
letting your hair down on the lively west side, the local taxi service
charges US$3 each way. Ask your hotel to put you in touch with a driver.If
you want to tour this part of the island, for example to visit
Fukuchani and Mvuleni Ruins, then it's possible to hire motorbikes,
jeeps and bicycles. Ask your hotel to help you arrange this, and
remember you must carry an International Driving Permit for a motorised
vehicle: these are checked frequently by police, so don't be tempted to
chance it. Drive with extra care, especially if you've rented a
motorbike; traffic is unpredictable and pot-holes common, so accidents
are frequent.
Where togo
There are a variety of areas to stay within Nungwi and they have been subdivided into the following:
South Beach The road into Nungwi from Zanzibar Town reaches a fork on the village outskirts. To reach places at the southern end of the west side of the peninsula, go left here, along a dusty track, towards the sea. This area has become unofficially known as South Beach, but it's a handy name, and might stick.
Just west of the village, South Beach is effectively the busiest beach. There is no reef in front of the shore here, so the water is deep enough for swimming, whatever the state of the tide. As the beach faces west, it is also a great spot for watching the sun go down. A number of the cheaper places to stay are located here, and it's certainly the liveliest part of Nungwi.
West Beach
Northwards from Paradise Beach Bungalows, still on the west side of the peninsula, is another stretch of beach, which for the purposes of this book we'll call West Beach. The places to stay here are described south to north.
Nungwi Village
Away from the beaches, in Nungwi village itself there are a couple of options.
East Beach
At the tip of the Nungwi peninsula is the lighthouse; from here, the coast curves back sharply to the south. This eastern side of the peninsula is significantly less developed and quieter than South and West beaches, with some great choices of places to stay set on low cliffs of coral rock above sandy beaches.
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