"We should wait here," our expert driver and guide David Mboya
intoned. These lions will rouse and might pursue one of the wildebeest.
David, a Maasai who left the pastoralist life at an early age to seek an
education, has led tours in the Serengeti for 14 years and has a
particularly keen eye for animal behavior. So we waited.
My wife
and I had come to Tanzania to celebrate our 20th anniversary. For my
wife, this was a first visit to Africa. For me, it was both a chance to
see the wildlife through her excited eyes and an opportunity to
experience the wildebeest and zebra migration 30 years after being on
the Kenya side of it in the Mara, at the Serengeti's most northern
boundary.
We toured Serengeti National Park and nearby Ngorongoro Crater,
Tarangire, and Lake Manyara. At some 12,000 square miles, the Serengeti
Ecosystem with its nearby wildlife reserves are together big enough to
contain the Great Migration of the wildebeest, zebra, and Thomson's
gazelle along with all the elephants, giraffe, lions, cheetah, etc. and
-- of course! -- many fabulous birds of East Africa (many, unique to
Africa, are shown here).
Weeks later, I still feel the
overwhelming spectacle of the migration and the vast grasslands and
woodlands of the Serengeti, which for the Maasai people means "endless
plains." This landscape, our planet's most historic place of wildlife
abundance, has a profound resonance owing to its deeper connection to
our own savanna origins -- evidenced by the nearby fossils and preserved
footprints of Olduvai Gorge.
That the Serengeti exists and
endures is the result of quirky history, dedicated conservationists, and
intense worldwide tourism. Tsetse flies are its original
conservationists. Without their irritating bites (I still have a few)
and worrisome diseases, Serengeti woodlands would have been permanently
settled by either African pastoralists or expanding European colonists.
Green Woodhoopoes are relatives of kingfishers, and live in groups where non-breeding helpers bring food to nestlings in cavities.
The culture of the Maasai is also
fundamental to the Serengeti. They tend livestock for sustenance and so
for centuries have coexisted with the big mammals of East Africa without
greatly exploiting them. (The politics of the Maasai and the Serengeti
are complex and include contentious evictions out of what is now the
park.)
But the Serengeti persists today because of the more than
one million tourists who come to Tanzania each year, providing fully
one-quarter of its foreign exchange. For most, this will be the
centerpiece of their visit. Safari vehicles bring you close to the
wildlife and the lodges are very posh. Our trip of a lifetime cost a
good fraction of our travel savings. A big expense for a priceless
landscape.
It is a relevant and essential investment in our
quality of life on earth. My wife's and my experience last month, like
your own past or future visits to other parks or protected areas, helps
to remind us of the biological heritage we share.
Protected
areas like parks and reserves are the backbone of wildlife
conservation. The U.S. National Park Service turns 100 in 2016 and
celebrate it we should. The park service largely created the idea of
parks for wildlife conservation worldwide. Yellowstone, Grand Teton, and
Denali are all part of that legacy.
The Wildlife Conservation
Society (WCS), for which I work, has a long and storied role in the
creation and management of parks and protected areas worldwide. Half a
century ago, as the New York Zoological Society, we helped create both
Grand Teton National Park and the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in the
U.S. In recent years, the diversity of approaches and the breadth of
our partnerships have redefined how protected areas are established and
managed.
Red-and-Yellow Barbets are part of a colorful, and highly vocal, group of birds unique to Africa.
For
instance, recently we helped to establish Ntokou-Pikounda National Park
in the Republic of Congo to protect the 15,000-plus lowland gorillas
WCS discovered there. In South America, we have been active for two
decades working in Madidi National Park, helping local people establish
legal tenure over their lands and bringing under management an area of
19,000 square kilometers that holds 11 percent of the world's bird
species.
In Cambodia, WCS works with wildlife ministry officials,
local communities, and tourism operators at Tonle Sap Lake to recover
-- and now maintain -- the largest waterbird nesting colonies in Asia,
while in Afghanistan WCS has just helped establish the 4,200-square-mile
Wakhan National Park.
Yellow-billed
Oxpeckers, starling relatives, forage on the hides of large mammals,
eating insects, tics, and sometimes the blood from insect bites.
The Serengeti is one of the
biggest and most magical of our last great places for wildlife left on
the planet. Not all protected areas receive thousands, let alone
millions of visitors and their money. Yet in our increasingly crowded
world, we need to continue to protect and value those few places where
wildlife is secure.
Back with David Mboya, our Massai guide, we
waited. The lone wildebeest darted away from the marsh without ever
seeing the lions approaching. The lions shrugged and went back to sleep.
There would be many, many more wildebeest nearby. They were content in a
land of plenty. We drove on to our next great viewing, also contented.
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