Read the Foreign Office advice on travel to Kenya
and you’d be forgiven for avoiding the place altogether. Words like
terrorism, piracy, kidnapping and violence are splattered through it
like bullets. Although this advice refers to the coast and Somali
border, the entire country is suffering. According to Kenyan government
statistics, British visitor numbers have fallen by more than a third
since 2012 (from 185,976 to 117,201 in 2014).
Paul Goldstein, a guide for Exodus and co-owner of Kenya-based Kicheche Camps,
says: “If the tourists don’t go on safari, there are no eyes on the
ground and the locals don’t get paid. The poachers move in.”
Goldstein was shocked last December to see a dead elephant, tusks
removed by poachers, in the Maasai Mara park: this would have been
unthinkable a year earlier.

When Tanzania closed its border with Kenya between 1977 and 1983, visitors to the Serengeti dropped from 70,000 a year to around 10,000. The loss in revenue caused a 60% decline in anti-poaching patrols and a rapid rise in poaching. Rhino disappeared, elephant numbers dropped and meat poaching skyrocketed. Similar things are now happening in northern Mozambique, where a government-backed survey has estimated that half of the country’s elephants (almost 10,000) have been illegally killed in the past five years.

A report in March by the United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) highlighted the scarcity of data on the economic value of wildlife tourism in Africa, but surveyed data from 48 government bodies and 145 tour operators from 31 African countries and concluded that poaching “threatened the tourism sector’s long-term sustainability”. However, only 50% of the operators were directly funding anti-poaching initiatives or engaging in conservation projects.
Encouraging them, and getting tourist numbers back up is vital. Jonathan Scott, who presents the BBC’s Big Cat Diary and has lived in Kenya for 40 years, says: “If the world is serious about helping to prevent poaching, we need those tourist dollars.”
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